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Note · Animalic notes

Castoreum

Close-up of a beaver in the water
Beaver; castoreum was once taken from this animal

Photo: hansbenn (new tab) / Pixabay (new tab)

Castoreum is an animalic note with leathery, smoky and faintly fruity facets. Inherited from classical perfumery, it is today almost always recomposed by the perfumer.

What it brings

A warm leathery depth that gives body to leather accords.

Origins and uses

Castoreum was originally a yellowish secretion produced by the beaver in two sacs located under the skin, between the pelvis and the base of the tail; the animal uses it to mark its territory. In the past, a tincture or resinoid was drawn from these dried sacs, often aged for several years. Classical perfumery valued it for its note suggesting leather, and it featured in great perfumes of the past. It was also used to flavour certain food preparations.

Today, the castoreum note is almost always recreated by the perfumer, without using the animal. It brings leathery, smoky, slightly fruity facets, and is used in small doses in the base of chypres, leathers and dark florals, to which it gives warmth.

In our catalogue, castoreum appears in the base of Memoir Woman by Amouage and Rose Tonnerre by Frédéric Malle, and in the heart of Alone in Babylon by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777, with sandalwood.

Text written with the help of AI, based on reference sources: encyclopedias, raw-material manufacturers and official information from the fragrance houses.

Material profile

Nature
Perfumer’s accord
Origin
Once a beaver secretion; most often recomposed today.
How it is obtained
Recomposed by the perfumer
On Volute
6 fragrances

The fragrances that reveal it

Amouage

Epic Man

Woody · Eau de parfum

Base

Xerjoff

Kemi

Woody

Heart

In the same family · Animalic notes

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