Eau de toilette, eau de parfum, extrait: what are the differences?

A fragrance is made of two elements: a concentrate of fragrant materials (essential oils, absolutes, synthetic molecules), written by the perfumer, and a carrier, most often alcohol with a little water. The name on the bottle indicates, broadly, the share of this concentrate in the blend. The higher it is, the richer the fragrance is in fragrant materials.

There is no common numerical standard. Each house sets its own dosages, and most do not publish them. The ranges usually quoted are therefore only orders of magnitude: a few per cent for an eau de cologne, around 5 to 15% for an eau de toilette, 15 to 20% for an eau de parfum, often more for an extrait. A few houses give the exact figure: Amouage, for instance, announces a 42% concentration for Decision 42.

The rest depends on the composition itself. A fragrance made of woods, resins and musks, heavy materials that evaporate slowly, will stay more present than a citrus fragrance at the same concentration. Our guide Top, heart and base notes explains why.

Born in Cologne in the 18th century, eau de cologne is the lightest form of fragrance. It is associated with citrus, aromatic herbs and orange blossom, sprayed generously for an immediate sense of freshness. Today the word refers both to a concentration and to a style, that of citrus fragrances: some houses therefore offer more concentrated "colognes", such as the eaux de parfum in Louis Vuitton's Cologne line.

More concentrated than an eau de cologne, eau de toilette remains light and luminous. It spreads quickly, softens over the hours and suits daytime, the office and sunny days well. People think it is reserved for fresh scents; that is a misconception. An eau de toilette can be ambery and enveloping: it all depends on the materials chosen by the perfumer. Two very different examples from our catalogue.

Eau de parfum is today the most widespread concentration, and by far the most common in niche perfumery: the great majority of the fragrances in our catalogue are eaux de parfum. Richer than an eau de toilette, it offers a good balance between diffusion and persistence, and gives the fragrance time to unfold its three tiers, from the top notes to the base.

It is the concentration of Carnal Flower, Gypsy Water, Baccarat Rouge 540 and Delina. It suits almost every occasion; you simply adjust the amount to the moment, one or two sprays at the office, a little more for an evening out.

Extrait, or extrait de parfum, is the most concentrated form. Rich in materials, it often sits closer to the skin than an eau de parfum, with a more hushed trail, and is applied sparingly. Several houses in our catalogue use it readily: all the Nishane fragrances on Volute are extraits, and Louis Vuitton gathers its own in a collection, Les Extraits.

Some houses simply use the word "parfum", which generally refers to a high concentration, close to an extrait: this is the case for Tom Ford with Tobacco Vanille Parfum and for Parfums de Marly with Althaïr Exclusif.

When a house offers a fragrance in a new concentration, it does not always simply make it stronger: it often reworks the formula. Tom Ford gives a fine example with Tobacco Vanille, an eau de parfum from its Private Blend line, and its "parfum" version. According to the house, the latter adds an oak wood extract and a whisky barrel accord, which strengthen its woody and amber facets. The published notes are therefore not quite the same.

The lesson applies to every house: before choosing a higher concentration out of habit, smell both versions. You may prefer the lighter one, or discover in the richer one an almost new fragrance.

According to the moment. An eau de cologne or an eau de toilette for sport, the office and hot days; an eau de parfum for almost everything; an extrait for evenings and moments when you want an intimate fragrance, worn close to you.

According to the season. Heat heightens fragrances: in summer, a lighter concentration is often enough. Cold, on the other hand, holds them back; in winter, an eau de parfum or an extrait naturally comes into its own.

According to how you feel about the trail. If you like a fragrance to be noticed, a diffusive eau de parfum will suit you better than an extrait, which often stays closer to the skin. If you prefer discretion, a well-dosed extrait can be an excellent choice.

Without forgetting longevity. A high concentration and a base of heavy materials favour a fragrance's longevity, though no name guarantees a precise duration; our guide Niche fragrances known for their longevity presents ten examples.

On Volute, each profile shows the concentration published by the house on its official website. When the house does not publish it, we do not guess: the profile then shows "Concentration not disclosed". We never assume that a fragrance is an eau de parfum because that is the most frequent case.